#301 Maintenance and repair

Knowing how to maintain and repair your bike is an essential skill in bikepacking. At home, regular maintenance extends component life and guarantees reliable operation. In the field, knowing how to handle common mechanicals makes the difference between a successful outing and having to bail.

Routine maintenance at home

Regular maintenance comes down to a few simple habits, done before and after each outing or at regular intervals. Cleaning. The drivetrain (chain, chainrings, cassette, derailleurs) is the area most exposed to grime. Regular cleaning with a brush and degreaser prevents premature wear. The frame cleans up with a sponge and soapy water — avoid pressure washers, which force water into the bearings. Chain lubrication. After cleaning and drying, apply a lube suited to the conditions (dry or wet) to each link, then wipe off the excess. A properly lubricated chain runs silently and wears more slowly. Tire pressure check. Check the pressure before every outing. With tubeless, top up the sealant every three to four months, as it dries out over time. Brake check. Regularly inspect pad thickness. Worn pads reduce braking power and risk damaging the rotors. On hydraulic brakes, check the brake fluid level and make sure there are no leaks at the fittings. Bolt tightness. Periodically check the tightness of critical components: wheel axle, stem, seatpost, pedals. A bike that creaks or clicks often hides an under-tightened bolt.

Field repair kit

The field repair kit should cover the most frequent mechanicals while staying compact and organized. Ideally, gather everything in a dedicated soft pouch — easy to pull out of a frame bag or seat pack — rather than scattering the tools across different compartments. Pump. A pump moving 80 to 100 cc per stroke is a good compromise between bulk and effectiveness: the higher the volume per stroke, the faster the reinflation. Always check compatibility with the valve type fitted to your wheels. Three standards coexist: Presta (thin valve, with a small nut to unscrew before pumping), Schrader (car-type valve, just remove the cap), and Clic (a more recent standard with instant snap-on connection). Some pumps accept the first two formats via a reversible head — check before you leave. Tire levers. Two are enough with quality models; three cover you if one breaks. Pedro's tire levers are the benchmark: tough, ergonomic, and compatible with the most stubborn rims. Spare inner tube. With a tubed setup, a spare gets you back on the road in under fifteen minutes without trying to locate and patch the hole in the field — which remains the right approach for bike commuting. With a tubeless setup, the spare tube is still useful as a last resort (a tear the sealant or plugs can't seal). Puncture repair kit. A set of tubeless plugs for tubeless setups. For tubed setups, glue-on patches offer a more reliable repair than self-adhesive patches, especially on old tubes or in cold weather. CO2 cartridge. A CO2 cartridge paired with a suitable inflator head lets you reinflate a tire in seconds — useful for getting back on the road quickly after a repaired puncture. Some pumps offer a CO2-compatible head in addition to manual pumping, which saves you carrying two separate pieces of equipment. Drivetrain. A chain tool and one or two quick links compatible with the chain fitted. A broken chain is a frequent failure and a complete showstopper without this tool. Multi-tool. A compact bike multi-tool including at minimum 4, 5, and 6 mm Allen keys, a T25 Torx key, and a Phillips screwdriver. Check in advance which bolt sizes are present on the bike (stem, seatpost, pedals) to make sure the multi-tool covers them. Miscellaneous. Strong adhesive tape (Gorilla Tape or similar, wrapped around a pen to save space), a plastic zip tie (cable tie), and a spare derailleur hanger if the frame uses a removable model.

Fixing a puncture

The puncture is the most common mechanical. The procedure varies with the setup. Tubeless: most punctures seal themselves thanks to the sealant. If the hole is too big, insert a tubeless plug from the outside of the tire without removing it. As a last resort, install the spare inner tube after removing the tubeless valve and as much sealant as possible. With an inner tube: remove the wheel, unseat one side of the tire with the tire levers, pull out the tube, identify the hole (inflate lightly and inspect by sight or sound), apply a patch or replace the tube. Before refitting, run your fingers around the inside of the tire to detect any puncturing object still in place.

Caring for the chain and drivetrain

The chain is a wear item. As it gradually stretches, it degrades the chainrings and cassette, leading to a hefty extra cost if you replace it too late. A chain wear checker (a 0.5/0.75 indicator) lets you monitor its condition: replace the chain as soon as the 0.75 indicator drops in fully. Bike commuting is an excellent setting for learning to master these skills. Punctures, dropped chains, and adjustments come up naturally over the course of your commutes, in an environment where a mechanical doesn't carry the same consequences as deep in the mountains. See #301 - Bike commuting as training.

Adjusting the brakes and derailleur

Rear derailleur. A poorly adjusted derailleur produces clattering or chain skips. Adjustment involves three screws: the high and low limit screws (which restrict the derailleur's travel to keep the chain from falling off) and the cable tension barrel adjuster (which fine-tunes alignment on each sprocket). In the field, a quarter turn of the barrel adjuster is often enough to fix imprecise shifting. Disc brakes. Constant rotor rub against the pads is often due to a poorly centered caliper. Loosen the two caliper mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever to center the caliper on the rotor, then retighten the bolts while holding the lever down.